Author: Discus Paradise

Aquarium filters convert water pollutants through bacteria which collect on the filter material. This information is important so you understand why you do not have to clean the aquarium filters too often! In fact, frequent cleaning would cause an imbalance in the bacterial culture and hence affect their cleaning and filter performance. Oxygen is also fed into the aquarium water through the filter pumps.

Filter systems:
Exterior or interior filters. We recommend using two interior filters to have a backup and to improve the quality of the water. Exterior filters are connected via tubes and therefore are placed outside the aquarium. There is a risk of a tube coming loose or a filter starting to leak. This could cause the aquarium to leak dry. This risk can be avoided by using interior filters.

Simple, inexpensive, reliable and worthwhile.
In case your main filter starts to fail, it is ideal to have a back up filter to avoid crashing your aquarium cycle.

Required Materials:
1. Foam sponge, medium sized pores, size: 15 x 15 x 25 cm
2. GF plastic pipe 40 mm diameter, approx. 40 cm long, with slits on it
3. GF sleeve socket 40 mm diameter
4. Motor pump, e.g. 27 W
When choosing a pump, you should make sure that the suction side of the pump can be fitted exactly onto the pipe or sleeve socket. Assemble all parts, in the same order as they are listed above. If required, you can fasten the pump to the pipe using aquarium silicone. Position the filter on the base of the aquarium and run it in (approx. 14 days). Estimated filter performance: sufficient for approx. 20 fully-grown discus fish, with 2 – 3 feeds per day.

Cleaning the filter: if the pores of your foam sponge are large enough, you will not need to clean the filter, as it does not clog up and as it develops an excellent bacteria culture. However, is the pores do clog up, squish the sponge in a bucket with your aquarium water.

When is a 90% water change necessary and how to take care of it?
A 90% water change is necessary if the aquarium water is toxic for your fish and they are showing signs of poisoning! If your discus fish are “shooting” through the aquarium, it is very likely that this is a sign of poisoning. This can happen, for example, if you feed more than your filter can break down (nitrite poisoning).

If you have detected traces of nitrite, when testing your aquarium water chemistry, you should first cut the feeding amount and not cease feeding straight away. The behavior of your fish will tell you when the nitrite level is too high because they will refuse their feed and breathe heavily and quickly. Should you observe this behavior in your discus
fish, you must immediately stop feeding and carry out a 90% water change. Only once the nitrite content and/ or the ammonium content and/ or the ammonia content of your aquarium water has reached zero again, should you gradually begin to feed your fish again.

Use a bucket and hose to remove 90% of your aquarium water and Re-position your filters, so that they continue to filter the aquarium water for as long as possible while the water drains and so that they can resume the filtration of the water as quickly as possible, when you are re-filling the aquarium. When you re-fill the aquarium, you must use water of a suitable temperature (approx. 28°C / 82°F) so that your fish will not be swimming in cold water. Carefully pour the first buckets of fresh water slowly against the inside of your aquarium wall, as your fish are likely to be nervous due to the low water level and may startle and/ or injure themselves.

If your tap water is very soft (GH 0 – 5), you may need to do water changes more frequently. Also, if the pH value falls from say, 7.5 to 6.0 in a short period of time you should do a water change immediately. Otherwise the pH value – and hence the acidity of your aquarium water – will drop very quickly. If the pH value reaches 3.6, the acidity is so high that it is lethal for your fish. If the stocking density of your aquarium is low, you can reduce the volume of the water you exchange or how frequently you carry out a water change, as appropriate.

The reason for changing the water is to keep water values within the normal range, i.e. a pH value above 5.0 and a nitrate value less than 50 mg.

Clean your hands with a brush under running water (without using soap). This will remove contaminants such as the remains of cream which may be on your hands and which should not get into the water of the aquarium under any circumstances.

Prepare cleaning utensils which you should only use for cleaning the aquarium and changing the water. It is important that no remains of cleaning agents are in the bucket or on the other cleaning utensils since these contaminants can seriously injure your fish! Useful utensils for cleaning and changing water are: bucket, scraper toothbrush, rubber gloves and a thin hose for suctioning off water and dirt.

Placing pumps and heaters in the correct position. Before you start changing the water, slide the pumps towards the bottom to reduce the amount of water flowing through. The pumps should not run dry since they would be damaged irreparably. You should also ensure that the heater is always under water or turned off since this would burn out if exposed to the air. When you switch off the heater for cleaning, don’t forget to switch it on again when you have finished cleaning!

Removing water
Create a vacuum in the hose so that the water can flow out of the aquarium into the bucket through the hose. Remove 25% of the stale water by suctioning out the dirt and debris in the substrate. Always make sure that the end of the hose is in the bucket and that the bucket does not overflow! Clean out algae and other residue inside the aquarium with a brush and scraper, avoid fast movements to not spook the fish.

Adding fresh water,
Pour the fresh dechlorinated water carefully from the bucket (which should be used solely for this purpose) into the aquarium. The new water should be the same temperature as the remaining aquarium water. Add a plate to the bottom of the aquarium to avoid disturbing the substrate. Repeat the process until the former level of the water is reached. Don’t forget to turn back on the pumps and the heater after you’ve finished your water change.

Once your aquarium and filter has been installed, you should only add the required bacteria starter culture (available in specialist pet shops) after your aquarium water has reached the required temperature of 29°C / 84°F. From the moment you add the bacteria starter culture, you should begin “feeding the empty aquarium” once daily with a little food. The process of “feeding an empty aquarium” is necessary because it provides the bacteria with nutrients and allows them to multiply. After about two to three weeks, a sufficient bacteria culture for filter performance will have developed in the aquarium and then the aquarium can be stocked with fish. 

Before adding your fish, test the water chemistry in your aquarium. It is important that the test shows no traces of ammonium, ammonia or nitrite, as these are toxic for discus fish. In theory, these contaminants should already have been broken down. The pH value of the water should be between 6.5 and 7.8. To protect your fishes’ fins and mucous
membranes, you can add a water conditioner just prior to adding your fish to the aquarium. Then, you’re finally ready to add your fish. Liquid drop test kits/ indicator kits for pH value, nitrite, nitrate, ammonium, ammonia, etc. are available in specialist pet shops. When you initially “feed” your empty aquarium, nitrite will develop in the aquarium water (can be tested using a liquid drop test kit/ indicator kit). After two to three weeks, the nitrite content will have been broken down and the aquarium water is ready to be stocked with plants and fish. 

Testing your water:

Ammonium
Ammonium develops when the pH value of the water is below 7, or when a filter is not yet functioning fully. You can prevent the ammonium value from rising, by minimising the amount of feed you give your fish.

Ammonia
Ammonia develops when the pH value of the water is over 7. It is toxic and will develop if a filter is not yet functioning fully. You can prevent the ammonia value from rising, by minimising the amount of feed you give your fish. The ammonia level should be 0.0ppm or undetectable.

Nitrite
Nitrite levels should be tested daily in new aquariums. Once you are feeding normal (full) amounts and nitrite traces are no longer present, you can then cease testing for nitrite. Only if the filter performance drops due to filter cleaning or after a filter outage/ failure you need to test for nitrite daily again (for approx. 1 week). This is to check whether the filter has reached its full performance again. You can also tell from the behaviour of your fish, if nitrite levels are extremely high. Generally, the fish start refusing their feed and breathe heavily and quickly. If this is the case, please test for nitrite immediately. If nitrite levels are high, stop feeding immediately and carry out a 90% water change as nitrites should also be at 0ppm or undetectable.

Nitrate
Nitrate levels should be tested three or four times a year, just prior to a water change. If nitrate levels are over 380 mg per 3,8 litre / 1 gallon, it is advisable to change more water and/or carry out water changes more often, to ensure healthy growth for your fish.

pH
Test your pH once a week. If the pH value falls from, say, 7.5 to 6.0 before a full week has passed, then it is already time to carry out your water change. Otherwise the pH value – and hence the acidity of your aquarium water – will drop very quickly. If the pH value reaches 3.6, the acidity is so high that it is lethal for your fish.

Phosphate
Phosphate levels only need to be tested if you observe increased algae growth. You can lower phosphate levels by exchanging more water and/ or carrying out water changes more often.

General hardness
If you mix tap water with osmosis water to keep Wild caught discus fish or to keep breeding discus pairs, you need to test the water mix only at the beginning, to ensure an ideal GH value of between 1 and 4.

Ideal Locations
The ideal location for a discus aquarium is a frequently-used room (e.g. living room, dining room or eat-in-kitchen) so that your discus fish are accustomed to showing their natural behavior in your presence. Our fish are accustomed to people frequently walking past their aquariums and to being cared for by them. Our fish enjoy the presence of human beings. Unsuitable locations for a discus aquarium are directly behind a door, as this makes the fish very jumpy. Garages or cellars are also disadvantageous as these areas are not frequently used, which would also make your discus fish react more nervously. Also, to prevent an excessive build-up of algae, you should avoid placing your aquarium directly in front of a window or in direct sunlight. The surface on which the aquarium will rest must be clean and level. Even a single grain of sand can cause the glass of a full aquarium to crack. The supporting structure, on which the aquarium rests, should be very sturdy, as an aquarium with a capacity of 180 litres / 50 US gallons, filled with water, can weigh more than 250 kilos / 550 pounds. Aquarium cabinets are designed to meet these requirements and also offer storage space for feed and equipment.

Caution: Before installing larger aquariums, you should have the structural properties of the room checked! Once you have found a good location for your aquarium and have set it up, clean in as follows (without fish or plants):  

Cleaning a new aquarium
When you clean a new aquarium for the first time, you should use a vinegar
solution, diluted with water. Wash the insides of the glass panes and the silicon
joins thoroughly with the vinegar solution. Then wipe everything dry, so that no
chemical residues remain, which could affect your water quality.

Cleaning a used aquarium
Disinfect used aquariums with hydrogen peroxide (available from chemists or drug stores).
Dosage of the hydrogen peroxide solution: Use 0.5 litres / 0,13 US gallons of a 30 % hydrogen peroxide solution per 180 litres / 50 US gallons of water. Avoid direct contact with hydrogen peroxide! It can cause chemical burns! Please wear safety glasses and use gloves! Fill your aquarium with water and add the required dosage of the hydrogen peroxide solution as described above. This will disinfect the contents of the aquarium, the filters, any nets and also the water itself. Allow this water and hydrogen peroxide solution to stand for a full 24 hours. Then perform a 99% water change and fill the aquarium with fresh tap water. By using this procedure, you will kill off all bacteria and remove any germs/ pathogens.

Adding substrate
Ideal aquarium substrates are quartz sand or fine aquarium gravel (both are available in specialist pet shops). Before placing the gravel in your aquarium, wash it thoroughly under running water to remove all dust. This will help prevent your aquarium water becoming cloudy. A kitchen strainer or colander is ideal for washing gravel under running water. Once your gravel is washed, spread it evenly as a substrate in your aquarium. Should you opt for fine quartz sand as a substrate, there is no need to wash the sand prior to use – you can place it directly in the aquarium.

Filling the aquarium with tap water
We recommend that you fill your aquarium using a bucket or hose. Be sure to use a bucket that you reserve solely for the purpose of water changes for your aquarium, as it is vital that no traces of cleaning product residues enter into your aquarium water.

Aquarium Heater
To heat your aquarium water, attach the heater the inside side walls of your aquarium or inside rear wall and set the the heater to 29°C / 84 °F. Caution: be sure to only switch on the heater once it is fully under water, as otherwise it will overheat and burn out! The heater must be connected to a power source and run around the clock, without interruption. After approx. 24 hours, the water in a 180 litre / 50 US gallons aquarium should have reached the required temperature of 29°C / 84°F. At this point you can begin running in your filters. Attach an internal thermometer to the front glass of your aquarium so that you are able to read and control the current water temperature at all times. The appropriate water temperature for your discus fish is approx. 29° – 30°C / 84°F–86°C.

Air pumps
To ensure a good oxygen supply for your aquarium water, an air pump (with an aeration stone) is ideal and highly recommendable. The air pump should run around the clock, without interruption. The pump should already be switched on when you run in your filters, as the newly introduced bacteria cultures will require a lot of oxygen.

Filters – choice and use
Once you have chosen the type of filter system you would like to use, you are ready to install the filter. You should only add the required bacteria starter culture (available in specialist pet shops) after your aquarium water has reached the required temperature of 29°C / 84°F. From the moment you add the bacteria starter culture, you should begin “feeding
the empty aquarium” once daily with a little feed. The process of “feeding an empty aquarium” is necessary because it provides the bacteria with nutrients and allows them to multiply. After about two weeks, a sufficient bacteria culture for filter performance will have developed in the aquarium and then the aquarium can be stocked with fish.

Activated carbon
As a safety precaution, it is a good idea to place a bag of activated carbon (available as a filter medium in specialist pet shops) in your aquarium for two to three weeks, without any fish. Activated carbon will filter out any toxic substances which may be present in the water. It is important to remove the activated carbon after three weeks at the latest! Removing the bag of activated carbon is vital, as toxic substances will be re-released into the water, once the carbon is saturated with them! 

Aquarium Lighting
The aquarium lighting should only be switched on after the fish have been added. After placing your fish in your aquarium, please wait for one day before switching on your aquarium lighting, so that the fish can gradually familiarise themselves with the new environment. You can easily set the lighting using a timer clock (we recommend: 12-14 hours per day).

Water chemistry
Please test the water chemistry in your aquarium, before adding your fish. It is important that the test shows no traces of ammonium, ammonia or nitrite, as these are toxic for discus fish. In theory, these contaminants should already have been broken down. The pH value of the water should be between 6.5 and 7.8. To protect your fishes’ fins and mucous
membranes, you can add a water conditioner just prior to adding your fish to the aquarium. (Liquid drop test kits/ indicator kits for pH value, nitrite, nitrate, ammonium, ammonia, etc. are available in specialist pet shops.) When you initially “feed” your empty aquarium, nitrite will develop in the aquarium water (can be tested using a liquid drop test kit/ indicator kit). After two to three weeks, the nitrite content will have been broken down and the aquarium water is ready to be stocked with plants and fish. 

Substrate
We recommend using quartz sand or fine aquarium gravel as a substrate. Before placing the gravel in your aquarium, please wash it thoroughly in a strainer or colander under running water to remove all dust. This will help prevent your aquarium water becoming cloudy.

Roots, Plant Life, Rocks and Stones
Bogwood is good choice and is available in specialist pet shops. These aquarium roots do not float, and they rest securely on the substrate and are free of pollutants, e.g. from pesticides. When choosing plant life for your aquarium, please be sure to only choose plants which are able to withstand temperatures of 30°C/86°F long term, e.g.
Amazon plants, various types of Echinodorus, Oak-Leaf, Tiger Lotus, Cabomba, Vallisneria gigantea, etc. Be cautious about rocks and stones that you place in your aquarium, as these release minerals into the water and may negatively impact on your water chemistry. Do not place any objects in your aquarium which have sharp edges or are pointy/ spiky. These could cause your discus fish to startle and to “shoot” through the aquarium at high speed. To avoid injury to your discus fish, we recommend that you remove pointy parts of roots etc. by using a saw or sandpaper.

Backgrounds
You can use plastic sheeting, printed with photos of green plant life, which are available in specialist pet shops. We recommend turning these backdrops around and using the black or white side of the sheet, as these will provide a stark contrast to the colors of your discus fish, highlighting their colours even more. You can also purchase backgrounds with a blue “water design” that make the water in your aquarium look “blue” and give it a
brilliant underwater look. These plastic sheets must be attached to the outside of your aquarium’s rear wall.

Further Decorating Tips
For your communal fish like Butterfly Cichlids or other Dwarf Cichlids, we recommend placing half a coconut shell in the aquarium for them as a hatching area. The coconut shell should be place upside down and fitted with holes.

The discus aquarium for beginner aquarists.
The simplest and least complicated way to maintain discus is to introduce a group of 10 or more specimens of small discus (6.5-10 cm) into a standard 1 m long aquarium. This size of aquarium is perfect for rearing fry. The easiest way to maintain a discus aquarium is to forgo roommates and plants (risk of introducing disease). The ideal is however to transfer the individuals after a certain time and once they have reached a certain size in a larger aquarium.

The aquarium should have the following equipment:
– Lighting
– 2 filters
– 1 aquarium heater
– 1 night light
– 1 air pump for oxygen supply
– Timer to adjust the lighting
– Thermometer
– Tests in drops (nitrite, pH)
Many pet stores also already sell very affordable complete aquarium solution kits.

It is also possible to put a little sand at the bottom of the aquarium and/or artificial plants when rearing smaller discus. Thoroughly wet, wash and rinse all accessories and decorative items before placing them in the aquarium. Be careful not to use sharp objects. File the roots and remove the sharp ends beforehand to avoid any risk of injury to the discus. To beautify the aquarium, you will find many beautiful artificial plants on the market that look like the real ones. (Install a CO2 injection system if real plants are introduced into the aquarium).

We recommend that you use two internal filters so that you always have a backup in case one filter fails. Ideally attach the two internal filters to opposite sides of the aquarium. Using two filters also improves water quality and pollutants are removed faster. Your filtration system must be connected to a power source and running all the time! External filters are attached via hoses and are placed outside the aquarium. There is a risk of one of the hoses coming loose or the filter leaking. If this happens, water may completely drain from your aquarium, so make sure everything is secure.

Finally, we advise you to use a sponge (macroporous) to clean the panes of the aquarium when they are curved. This avoids making unsightly scratches on the front glass as is often the case when using a squeegee. Make sure the bucket and aquarium accessories are completely free of any soap and detergent residue, ideally only use them for the aquarium. Wash your hands thoroughly to remove all traces of soap and cream before plunging them into the aquarium. Also remember to wet them before touching the fish!

-Breeding Discus (Discus Pair)
To breed discus fish, we recommend using an aquarium with a capacity of 150 litres/40 US gallons (60 cm x 50 cm x 50 cm) (24” x 20” x 20”). Juvenile fish should be separated from the parents when they are 12 – 14 days old. At this age they start seeking out food on the floor of the aquarium and could ingest pathogens or germs.

-Discus Pair With Communal Fish In A Planted Aquarium
You will need an aquarium with a capacity of at least 180 litres/50 US gallons (100 cm x 40 cm x 45 cm) (40” x 16” x 18”)
We recommend an aquarium size of 250 litres / 65 gallons (100 cm x 50 cm x 50 cm) ( 40” x 20” x 20”) When keeping a pair of discus fish, the two fish should be at least 14 cm in size, because two smaller fish, kept as a pair, will not grow well in size, as “competitive feeding” does not take place.

–Rearing Discus Fish, Keeping a Discus Group
To rear a discus group (of at least 10 fish) an aquarium with as small a capacity as 180 litres / 50 US gallon is sufficient
(100 cm x 40 cm x 45 cm) (40” x 16” x 18”). However, for 10 fully-grown fish we recommend using an aquarium with a
capacity of at least 300 litres/ 80 gallons.

-Discus Group with Companion Fish in Aquarium with Plant Life
For 10 fully-grown discus fish with additional communal fish and plant life we recommend using an aquarium with a capacity of at least 400 litres / 105 US gallons. (160 cm x 50 cm x 50 cm) (63” x 20” x 20”).

TIPS
1. At the outset, you should establish whether you will be keeping a group of discus or a pair (as described in points 1 – 4 below). You should also make a firm decision as to whether you will be keeping wild caught, asian or european strains and then purchase those fish in future (avoid mixing!).
2. Take your time to prepare a new aquarium thoroughly until you have achieved the optimum water chemistry for our discus fish.
3. You should purchase a generous initial amount of plants and fish stock and, if possible, refrain from adding new plants or fish later (risk of introducing pathogens).
4. Feed a high quality nutritious food 3 x per day.
5. ⅓ weekly water changes.
6. Ideal water temperatures for discus fish are 28° – 30°Celsius / 82,6 – 86°F.
12 hourly lighting via a timer clock and a nightlight is recommended (nightlights
are an orientation guide and prevent discus fish becoming startled then injuring themselves)

Discus fish belong to the Cichlid genus and therefore should be kept in groups of at least 10 fish! (Exception: keeping a pair of fish/ breeding).

Typical behavior for this type of Cichlid is that, in smaller groups, often one fish will become dominant. This fish will then attack all other discus fish in the group, and often the group dynamic will result in the group preventing the weakest fish from feeding. The weakest fish will then become dark in colour, remain immobile in a corner, lose weight, will be excluded by the group and may die. If this happens, the group then turns on the next weakest fish and prevents it from feeding, and so on.

To prevent such behavior from continuing, we recommend that you increase the stocking density until the aggression in the group decreases. Experience has shown that discus fish behave peacefully in group sizes of 10 fish or more.

The described behavior is well-known in African Cichlids (e.g. Malavi, Tangajika). Discus fish are South American Cichlids with similar behavioural characteristics!